Tuberous begonia: home care, planting in a pot, watering, top dressing, reproduction, wintering + reviews

Tuber begonia (Begonia tuberhybrida) is a representative of the extensive Begonia family. The first begonias were discovered on the Antilles in 1687. Breeders were so impressed by the beauty of this plant that they began to actively create more and more hybrids. In pursuit of perfection, a tuberous begonia appeared.

The starting point for the selection of a complex hybrid is considered the middle of the XIX century. It was then that breeders crossed two species of wild begonias native to Bolivia and received a new plant with a tuber. The hybrid began to be actively crossed with begonias from different regions, cultivating interesting varieties. In tuber begonia the best features of the family were combined - lush, long flowering and unpretentiousness to the conditions of detention.

5 species features

Breeders love to experiment with this species, so new hybrid varieties regularly appear. They differ from each other, however, there are five species-specific features by which you can "identify" tuberous begonia.

Rhizome. Thick rhizome tuber is the “visiting card” of tuberous begonias. Such a rhizome was formed from the stem as a result of selection. The size of the underground tuber is approximately 5-6 cm.
Stem. You can recognize the tuber begonia by the fleshy juicy stalk. It is translucent, stretches on average up to 25 cm, but there are record garden bushes - 80 cm in height.
Leaves. The plant has large asymmetric leaves, heart-shaped. A distinctive feature is the next location. Leaves can be dark or light green. There are varieties with glossy and fleecy leaf plates.
Flowers Simple, terry, semi-terry - it all depends on the variety. The color of the flowers is different: all shades of red, milky white, pinkish, orange, bright yellow. Flowers can be monochromatic and with a border, small or large, bloom separately or collect in inflorescences.
Seeds The plant has very small seeds. They can be obtained if you wait for the fruit, which is a 1 cm box. Despite the small size of the fruit, it can contain up to a thousand seeds.

Tuber begonia can be grown with equal success in the garden, in a drawer on the balcony, on the windowsill. And all thanks to the fact that she knows how to adapt to any conditions. The plant owes this skill to the tuber, in which the substances necessary to support the “vital activity” are accumulated. This helps the flower to withstand the change of conditions.

Tuberous begonia blooms in late spring, and leaves "for rest" with the first frosts. At home, you can extend the flowering period to enjoy the beauty in winter. But perennials need a rest period of at least two months. If you provide the plant with conditions for wintering - with the onset of heat, it will again delight with lush flowering.

Tuberous begonia has heterosexual flowers. "Men's" - large, lush, terry. They bloom first. "Feminine" is much more modest: they consist of a maximum of five non-double petals, much smaller in size.

Main varieties

Through the efforts of breeders, many varieties of tuber begonia were bred. Their types are usually divided into four groups according to the characteristics of the colors:

ampelous;
small flowered;
medium flowering;
large-flowered.

The "favorites" of flower growers are large-flowered varieties. They are valued for terry flowers, the beauty of which is hard to resist - you just want to get such a plant for yourself. They resemble peony or camellia in shape. Petals amaze with their variety: you can find specimens with assembled, rugged, corrugated, fringed.

Large-flowered varieties are usually used in indoor floriculture: a plant with a lush “hat” of flowers can revive the interior and create a festive atmosphere. For landscaping loggias, balconies, ampel begonia is ideal. Its main difference is the long shoots. They form a bush with a lush leaf cover and delicate small flowers located on barely visible peduncles. But they love this variety not only for decorativeness. Leaving does not require any effort. A gentle-looking plant is not afraid of heat, drying out of the soil, drafts. Instances bloom early (in the middle of spring), bloom profusely, go into a state of rest later than other "relatives".

If possible, growers are advised to grow tuberous representatives of the Begonievs like this: one season on the windowsill, the second on the flower bed (or at least on the loggia). It is believed that alternate cultivation makes the culture resistant to any conditions, increases the flowering period.

4 buying recommendations

Tuber gardeners usually get tuber begonia in the form of a tuber. It is all the more interesting to grow a flower. Tubers are sold in flower shops. You need to know the rules for choosing planting material and then it will be possible to grow a beautifully flowering beauty without problems. Use the following four guidelines when purchasing.

The best time to buy. Tubers need to be bought when they are at rest. The end of January - the beginning of March is the best time.
The size. When choosing planting material, size matters. The diameter of the tuber should be at least 3 cm. If the tubers are small, then the plant did not receive enough nutrients.
Appearance. Do not take the first tuber. Before buying, you need to evaluate the appearance of planting material. Tubers must be tight. Overdried copies immediately sweep. The cover of healthy specimens is dark brown, without spots. It is important that there is no damage.
The presence of kidneys. If you want to buy a tuber at the junction of the seasons (late February - early March), pay attention to the presence of kidneys. Their presence is evidence of the proper storage of planting material. The rules are not violated - the plant wakes up at the appointed time. Varieties blooming in pink or red have buds of the same color. Do not take tubers with overgrown shoots: growth outside the soil increases the likelihood that the "pet" will be weak.

If you purchased a large planting material, then you can grow several plants. For this, the tubers are divided into parts. The main rule of division is at least three kidneys on each part.

Plant tubers

Tuber germination is a lengthy process. First, the root system builds up, then sprouts appear. Be prepared that you will see green shoots in the flowerpot no earlier than four weeks after the tuber is planted (sometimes later). Planting is best done in early March, then by the end of spring a flowering plant will flaunt on the windowsill.The later the planting is made, the less time the begonia will delight: in November, it begins dormancy, which can only be delayed by additional measures (raising the temperature, highlighting the plant). Planting a tuber in a flowerpot has nuances that a grower needs to know about.

Pot. A medium pot is suitable for begonias - not too wide, not too deep. Orient yourself like this: the distance from the top of the tuber to the edge of the pot should be at least 3 cm.
Drainage. The third part of the pot should be occupied by drainage. This will protect the root system from decay. Expanded clay, small stones are used as drainage.
Priming. It is better to use a purchased substrate or plant in peat, and when the sprouts are 5 cm long, transplant into permanent land. The plant needs a loose soil mixture. If you want to prepare the substrate yourself, then mix sand, sheet, humus and peat in equal amounts.
Landing. It is important to plant the tuber correctly: growth points should be at the top. Focus on the shape of the sides: immerse the rounded side in the substrate, the concave (flattened) should "look" up. Do not fill the soil to the end: the kidneys should “breathe”. When it is possible to root, add the substrate, but not before the sprouts go.
Watering. Until the shoots “hatch”, special attention should be paid to watering the planted tubers. Look for the "golden mean": it is important not to overdry, not to fill. The roots of sprouting tubers are small, they can easily dry out, and also easily rot.
Sprout removal. When the tuber sprouts, the extra sprouts must be removed. If the diameter of the tuber did not exceed 5 cm - you got a young plant. It is enough to leave two or three sprouts. If you ignore the rule, young begonia can not cope with such a heavy load.

On forums, some flower growers advise soaking a tuber in warm water for two hours before planting, supposedly it stimulates the kidneys. However, there is a second point of view: soaking can provoke rot. If you have acquired a healthy tuber, then it will grow without additional manipulations.

Perfect microclimate

If you bought not a tuber at the flower shop, but a “finished” plant, then you must first enter quarantine for it. The flower is shaded, not watered or fed the first week. Be sure to check for insects. When the quarantine is over (it is advisable to withstand at least two weeks), you can "turn on" the usual regime of care. If begonia appeared in the house in the form of a tuber, then first you need to germinate it. While you wait for the shoots - study specialized forums.

This variety of the Begoniaceae family is completely capricious. It is easy to create a suitable microclimate for a flower, and if it is possible to immediately optimize watering, then there will be no problems at all. Remember the rule of the "golden mean": take care, but do not overdo it.

If you decide to “hook” other flowers on the windowsill to the begonia, remember that she is an opponent of close proximity.

Light or shadow

Begonia loves when the lighting is bright. Light is necessary for the growth and laying of buds. But if direct sunlight will fall on the plant for a long time, burns may appear. Large-flowered varieties are especially affected by direct sun.

If you plan to plant begonia in open soil in the summer, find a place with light partial shade on the site. But if the plant will spend most of the day in dense shade - do not expect lush flowering.

Temperature mode

Begonia does not tolerate heat and cold. On the street, she can still adapt to weather conditions, but in the apartment from the heat or cold the plant will begin to wither. The optimum temperature for begonia is considered to be 18-23 ° C. During wintering, it is important that the temperature does not fall below 15 ° C.

Watering

Watering should be moderate. From overflow, its tender roots can rot. Begonia will not survive a long drought. The optimal irrigation regime is developed only by trial and error.It is necessary to focus on the condition of the soil: it should dry out by about 1 cm. In the heat of water, they usually spend three times a week. When begonia goes into a dormant state, watering is reduced to a minimum. If the tubers remain in the pot during the winter, then they are practically not watered (once or twice for the whole time, it depends on the temperature regime of the winter). You can not water the plant with cold water - only warm and previously settled.

Moisturizing

Humid air is a necessary condition for the active growth and flowering of tuberous begonia. However, gardeners often make the main mistake: they spray the flower to provide it with a sufficient amount of moisture. Such manipulation harms the plant: spots may appear on the leaves, the stem may rot, and the inflorescences may fall. To ensure optimal humidity, you need to spray air around the flowerpot, put a container of water near the flower.

Top dressing

During the flowering season, dressing is mandatory. To do this, it is recommended to use a complex fertilizer specially designed for flowering indoor plants. They need to “feed” twice a month: then flowering will be intense and long. However, if the planting was early, then you can feed it before flowering. For this, nitrogen mixtures are used: they stimulate growth.

It is important not to overdo it with nitrogen top dressing. From a large amount of nitrogen, an increase in leaf mass occurs, but flowering is inhibited. Tuberous begonias are decorative-flowering plants, in the inflorescences lies the whole beauty of the "pet".

Transfer

It is necessary to transplant the plant when it becomes crowded in the pot. When transplanting, it is important to examine the root system of begonias: if there are rotten areas, they are removed. Rot can damage part of the tuber. In this case, you need to cut the damaged area with a sharp knife, and sprinkle the wound with crushed activated carbon. It is recommended to sanitize the begonia root system before planting in a weak solution of potassium permanganate.

Tuberous begonia can be planted in the front garden for the summer. If the plant remains in the house, and does not move to the street, try not to change its position in relation to the sun. Rearrangement from the windowsill to the windowsill, turning the pot can lead to the discharge of buds. Lush flowering requires stability.

Rest period and wintering features

Around November, the dormancy begonia begins. Why "about"? Because it all depends on the temperature in the house. You can extend the flowering period, you can shorten, but begonias still need to rest. When a plant prepares for wintering, its leaves dry, they fall off along with faded inflorescences. Shoots also begin to die off, they need to be cut off, retreating about 1 cm from the tuber.

For home instances

You can store the tuber without removing it from the pot and without removing it from the ground. At home, it is still more convenient when the tuber hibernates in a pot: no extra manipulations are necessary. In spring, the tuber needs to be transplanted and germinated. There are three wintering rules, observing which you will be able to get a gorgeous plant again in the spring.

Dry air and low temperature. Place the begonia pot in a dry place. The temperature should not exceed 18 ° C, but also not fall below 12 ° C: in the first case, the begonia will not go to rest, in the second it will freeze.
Minimal watering. Reduce the intensity and amount of watering. Some varieties are even recommended to be watered only twice during the entire three-month wintering.
Refusal from feeding. It is impossible to feed a plant during hibernation.

For garden specimens

If begonia spent the "summer holidays" in the fresh air, then it is cut, and then the tubers are dug up. They can be stored on the refrigerator door. Tubers are wrapped with fibrous peat, sphagnum, cotton cloth. In spring, when growth points begin to hatch, tubers are planted in pots, and when they germinate, they can be transplanted into open soil or simply into a larger flowerpot.

If you do not give begonia in the winter "respite", then in the spring it will be a frail plant. In this case, there is no need to talk about the lush dome of flowers.

3 ways to breed

Three methods are used for propagation: cuttings, seed method and tuber division. There are tips to propagate the plant by leaf. However, such information is the result of confusion. A leaf plate is indeed used to produce new begonia sprouts, but only if it is a root variety, not a tuber.

Tuber division

Features The easiest way to reproduce. Florists consider it also the most effective. You can divide the tuber only when three active kidneys are visible on it. From a part without kidneys to grow a new plant will not work.

Step-by-step instruction

Using a sharp knife, divide the tuber into pieces.
Treat the slices with crushed charcoal (can be replaced with activated charcoal).
Plant the tubers in the pot, guided by the rules of planting, and wait for the sprouts to appear.

Cuttings

Features You need to carefully consider watering: waterlogging leads to decay of the underdeveloped root system and the emerging tuber. It takes up to three weeks to root the cuttings. The new plant is a "copy" of the mother.

Step-by-step instruction

Separate a small stalk (approximately 10 cm) from the parent plant.
Plant the sprout in wet peat.
When the stalk is rooted, you can transplant into a larger pot. At this stage, it is recommended to pinch: then side shoots will form and as a result a lush bush will turn out.

Cutting is best done in May. At this time, the shoots of the mother plant are strong enough, but still young. That is, here the "golden mean" is important.

Seeds

Features The method is laborious and long. If begonia grows on the windowsill, then there will be difficulties in obtaining seed. First, the inflorescences need to be pollinated artificially (use a brush), then - wait for the appearance of the fruit. There may be problems with harvesting: the seeds are very small.

Step-by-step instruction

Prepare a container with soil mix. Better to take a special from the store.
Mix the seeds with sand. This will simplify the sowing process.
Sprinkle the seeds along with the sand on the surface of the soil. Moisten the seed using a spray bottle.
Cover the container with glass or film. This is a greenhouse.
When the sprouts appear, remove the greenhouse. Let the sprouts grow stronger and dive.

Germination of seeds is a long process. However, impatient growers can speed it up. To do this, you need to treat the seed with a root stimulant. You can get the "assistant" in any flower shop.

Reasons for losing attractiveness

Growers when growing tuberous begonias often encounter the fact that the plant loses its attractive appearance, refuses to bloom. Most problems are due to improper care. It is important to understand in time what is wrong, then it will be possible to reanimate the plant quickly: it will be enough only to correct the errors of care. But those parts of the plant that have lost a presentable appearance will have to be removed. Common problems and their causes are analyzed in the table.

Table - Problems in growing tuberous begonias

Problem	The reasons
Leaves curl	- Too dry air; - high room temperature
Leaves turn yellow	- Lack of moisture or excess watering; - little light; - lack of nutrients
Brown or black spots appear on the leaves	Sunburn
Does not bloom	- Little light; - dry air; - insufficient watering; - drafts; - excess nitrogen in feed mixtures; - depleted soil; - too big pot
Buds fall	- Excessive watering; - lack of top dressing; - flower permutation

If the plant is weakened after care errors, it can be “fed” with nutrients.However, for starters, you need to eliminate the same errors and make sure that the problem lies not in an excess of fertilizing.

Disease

Tuberous begonia of the disease is not understood so often. The most common ailments are gray rot and powdery mildew. Both diseases appear as a result of waterlogging of the soil.

You can determine the presence of rot by a gray coating on the leaves and mucous coating on the buds. They fight the fungus by spraying with a soap solution with the addition of 2 g of copper sulfate. Powdery mildew is manifested by light gray spots covering the leaves. Affected areas should be wiped with soapy water and the irrigation should be adjusted in parallel.

Begonia can be affected by a disease that cannot be treated - bacterial spotting. You need to look for manifestations on the underside of the sheet: there appear watery “glass” spots that darken over time. Since the disease is incurable, the sick begonia is destroyed, the pots are thrown away or thoroughly disinfected.

Pests

Various pests like to settle on tuber begonia. The plant should be regularly inspected for the presence of “uninvited guests”. What insects can occupy the plant, what it can lead to and how to solve the problem, the table will tell.

Table - Pests of tuberous begonias

Insects	Signs	Methods of struggle
Aphid	- Yellowness of leaves; - weakening of the plant; - falling buds and flowers	- Treatment with soapy water; - use of insecticides
Diptera	Yellowness of leaves	Spraying with a solution of laundry soap
Thrips	- Slowdown of growth; - discoloration of the leaves; - withering flowers	- Use of systemic insecticides; - treatment with neurotoxins
Soft scaffold	- Deformation of the leaves; - lightening leaves; - sugar coating; Weak flowering	Pesticide spraying

There are folk methods of combating insects that have chosen indoor plants. For example, withshields recommend fighting with tincture of garlic (10 g per 1 liter), with aphids - tincture of shag (20 g per 1 liter). Alternative recipes can be used as an auxiliary or prophylactic method, but nothing has been invented more efficiently than purchased drugs.

What to do if you have created ideal conditions for the flower, optimized care, no insects, and the riot of colors did not wait? Perhaps begonia does not bloom, because you got a “growing” plant, which simply has exhausted its resource. “Five-year plans” are considered old, but sometimes “three-year-olds” do not have the strength for flowering. If you understand that the reason lies in this, “rejuvenate” the tuber by dividing it, grow a new plant from the cuttings. And soon the long-awaited dome of flowers will appear on your windowsill.

Reviews

I didn’t like begonias at all before. Somehow, they gave me a begonia with small red flowers, and it bloomed poorly, the leaves turned yellow all the time, kind of capricious (it seemed to me then), I got rid of it and forgot for a long time. Then in the next spring, thinking up what to grow on the balcony (there were petunias, nasturtiums, and morning glory, I’m tired of everything), I stumbled on begonias on the Internet and discerned all their beauty. I began to look for tubers. You can say planted what I found in stores, especially did not choose. Beauties have grown.

As for leaving, begonia was not whimsical at all. On the south-facing balcony in direct sunlight, there were no burns. Survived all the conditions, and a strong wind, and rain, and drought. Blossomed to frost. We had snow in October that year, and I have flowers on my balcony. She brought home when the frosts had already begun, she even froze, so she also blossomed at home. I didn’t bother much how to send tubers into hibernation, something in the basement in the same pots, something at home, would grow so grow. This summer I already bought tubers of other varieties, I want something new. And planted with seeds.

Lenaph, http://irecommend.ru/content/kogda-ya-begoniyu-ne-lyubila-prosto-malo-ee-znala

I tried several storage methods. But I found out for myself that it is best to leave the tubers in a flowerpot and put it on a cool window sill.Occasionally, it is necessary to slightly moisten the soil so that the tubers do not dry out, but also do not rot.

Vik, http://indasad.ru/forum/22-klubnevie-i-lukovichnie/103-klubnevaya-begoniya

Since I grow begonias only from tubers (and not by grafting or sowing), I organize the rest period by the method of storing large tubers.

By the beginning of autumn, I stop feeding the tuberous begonias (the last feeding occurs in late August - early September). For this top dressing, as I wrote earlier, it is best to use chlorine-free potash fertilizers. Since I have not yet picked up anything better, I use again the soluble complex fertilizer Kemira Lux. Watering is gradually reduced, I remove new buds that appear in September and wait for the natural death of the aerial part of the begonias.

When it gets cold outside, I bring containers and begonias into the room and put them on the window. By mid-October - early November I stop watering. If the upper part of the begonias by this time has not died out by itself, I cut the stems off the ground.

Further, pots and containers are recommended to be placed in the basement or in a cool dark place where begonias will winter until the end of February. I don’t have a basement, so I cover pots and containers with newspapers and put them on the floor by the balcony door (it’s cool there).

This is my personal experience, I do not presume to advise everyone. The first time I did this at my own peril and risk, so far everything has been working more or less successfully. Of course, as with any method of storing tubers, there are losses (after all, my method of storage is not the best, but the only possible one for me).

Gya http://frauflora.ru/viewtopic.php?t=4243