Diseases and pests of orchids: a review, diagnosis of the condition of the leaves, how much time and what funds are needed to save

Orchids are tender and moody flowers. They require a careful attitude, increased attention. They are gratefully answered with care by beautiful long flowering. It is important for flower growers to carefully study information about orchid diseases and their treatment before bringing this noble flower home. What signs indicate diseases and pests? What to do if an orchid is sick?
Purple Phalaenopsis Orchid Flowers

The source of all diseases and pest attacks is improper care. Why is orchid often sick? A strong, well-groomed plant better resists infections, fungi, and adverse factors. Other reasons are the purchase of an already diseased flower, contaminated soil, and proximity to infected plants.

Dangerous insects ...

Pests undermine orchid health. Some damage the root system, others suck juices. Orchid weakens, withers and even dies. Therefore, it is important to detect insects in time and get rid of them. Most often, gardeners have to deal with the following pests.

  • Shields and false shields. Insects are very similar. They differ mainly in the strength of the shell. The scabbard has no stable carapace. When you try to remove an insect from a leaf or stem, only the shell is removed, and the insect remains fixed on the plant. Scabies are found upon examination of the plant by the appearance of characteristic yellow or brown plaques. The insect eats plant juice, leaves behind a sticky coating. If sticky drops appear on the peduncle of the orchid, there is a high probability of the presence of scutes. Consequence - a sooty fungus often joins.
  • Thrips. Small black bugs with an oblong body. In nature, often found on daisies. Signs of thrips infection are black dots on the leaves (insect excrement), small holes on the petals, pollen sprinkling. Silver leaves are left on the leaves. Are carriers of diseases dangerous to orchids.
  • Spider mite. A sign of infection is a thin web, entangling leaves and flowers. It is activated in conditions of low humidity, often moves from indoor roses. The leaves are covered with bright dots, small holes are visible on the back side.
  • Root tick. Lives in the soil, affects mainly weak plants. It bites into the tissues of the root system, causes their rot. Orchids are relatively rare.
  • Flattening tick. Mostly the leaves are affected - they become pale, painted in a silver tint. Deformation of flowers and new leaves is observed. Without treatment, the orchid just dries out.
  • Cats. If there are midges in the orchid, then it's time to replace the substrate. These tiny insects feed mainly on soil decay products. Larvae of midges damage the roots.
  • Mealybug. Little white worm or bug. You can detect it by the appearance of white plaque on the ground, the inner walls of the pot, the roots. Female worms form around themselves the likeness of a cocoon that looks like a piece of cotton wool. Such lumps of cotton are localized in the root area, on the inner side or sinuses of leaves, on peduncles. It is not easy to get rid of a mealybug on an orchid.You will have to repeatedly treat the plant with chemicals, transplant it into fresh soil, so that the struggle with white bugs on orchids is crowned with success.
  • Millipedes. Notice millipedes is not easy. They live in the soil, crawl out to the surface only at night. Their presence can be suspected by damage to growth points, the appearance of small holes in young leaves, flower petals. They damage young roots.
  • Aphid. Small insects forming entire colonies on the back of young leaves. They feed on juice, leave behind sticky secretions. Leaves are deformed, curled, turn yellow and fall off.
It is not recommended to feed the orchid until insects disappear. Some fertilizers lead to accelerated reproduction of pests.

... and how to etch them

Orchid covered in bloom how to deal with it? A pest affected orchid is isolated. In most cases, it is recommended to transplant the flower into a new substrate, treat the roots of the orchid from pests. With a small number of insects, you can use a safer tool - soap solution. In other cases, the use of insecticides, acaricides, insectoacaricides is recommended.

  • Actofit. Means for preparing a spray solution. Effective against thrips, aphids, ticks, scutes.
  • Inta-Vir. A popular drug. Quickly destroys whitefly, thrips, spider mites, aphids. You can spray the orchid with a solution or completely immerse it in it. It is not recommended to use during flowering.
  • Actellik. The drug is a wide spectrum of action. Effective against almost all pests. A spray solution is being prepared. Reprocessing is allowed only after 10 days. Moderately toxic.
  • "Tsvetofos". It is used mainly to combat the mealybug.
  • "Bitoxibacillin". Biological product. Often used for prevention. Approved for use during flowering.
  • Aktara. Broad-spectrum insecticide. Quickly destroys fleas, spider mites, scutes, whiteflies, aphids. Alternate with other drugs, so the drug is addictive in pests. Moderately toxic - work with gloves and a respirator.
  • "Fufan". Effective against almost all pests of indoor plants. Between treatments maintain two-week breaks.
  • Vermitek. Good drug. It is used mainly against ticks and thrips.
To combat the spider mite, the following technique is used. The orchid is well watered, a plastic bag is thrown over it, tied and left in this state for a couple of days. Spider mites cannot tolerate high humidity - most of the insect population dies even before chemical treatment.

Orchid diseases and their treatment: the main types of lesions ...

Why do orchids turn red leaves? The main problem of orchids is fungal diseases. With excess moisture, the root system is easily affected by the fungus and rots. Orchids in a neglected state are not always able to reanimate. Therefore, it is very important to notice the symptoms on time and start treatment immediately. Most often, orchids are exposed to the following diseases.

  • Anthracnose. On all parts of the plant, clearly defined dark brown, almost black spots appear. As they spread, they merge, form protruding sections. The fungus spreads quickly. Without treatment, the orchid inevitably dies. Sick sections are cut out, treated with coal powder. The orchid is completely sprayed with a systemic insecticide.
  • Gray rot. It begins with the appearance of small brown spots. The lesion area is rapidly expanding, the leaves and stem rot. The treatment is complex, consists of adjusting the care and treatment with systemic fungicides. Humidity is reduced, watering is reduced, the room is regularly ventilated.
  • Fusarium. One of the most dangerous fungal diseases.First, the roots of the orchid rot, growth points, gradually the fungus spreads to the entire plant. It develops in conditions of waterlogging of the soil and high humidity. Damaged parts of the orchid are removed, sprayed with fungicides. It is not always possible to save an orchid.
  • Root rot. The disease affects the root system. The upper part does not rot. Orchids wither leaves, turn yellow, dry out, sometimes cracks form. Root rot is of fungal and bacterial origin. With a bacterial stem and orchid leaves turn black, exude an unpleasant odor.
  • Powdery mildew. First, white spots appear on the leaves of the orchid, gradually the whole plant is covered with a whitish bloom. Affected areas dry out. The orchid is watered, sprayed with fungicides.
As a prophylaxis, the orchid is periodically sprayed with a solution of Fitosporin. They comply with recommendations on the conditions of detention - they do not allow stagnation of water in the area of ​​the root system, systematic waterlogging of the substrate. The room is regularly ventilated.

... and recommended fungicides

Ill orchid isolated. Sore areas are cut to intact tissue. All sections are powder coated with carbon powder. The plant is sprayed three times at intervals of about 10 days with fungicides. In the future, preventive spraying is carried out - once a month. The following remedies have proven themselves well.

  • Fitosporin. Microbiological fungicide of a new generation. Effective against all of these diseases. Widely used as a prophylactic.
  • Fundazole. Systemic fungicide universal action.
  • Oksikhom. It is used in the treatment of dangerous fungal diseases - bacterial spotting, root rot.
  • "Topaz". It copes with powdery mildew and rust.
  • "Immunocytophyte". Used to treat most diseases. In order to prevent one spraying per month is enough.
  • Fito Plus. Easily copes with root and summit rot, gray rot, powdery mildew.
All drugs are used only if necessary. Excessive fascination with fungicides weakens the orchid.

Resuscitation of a flower without roots ...

Features. Due to improper care, fungal diseases, the root system of an orchid can completely rot. You can save an orchid without roots if you strictly adhere to the recommended conditions. One of the easiest ways is to build up the root system in water.

Step-by-step instructions for root extensions

  1. Cut off any rotten, damaged roots.
  2. Coat the sections with carbon powder and dry for two hours.
  3. Treat with fungicide to prevent re-decay.
  4. For half an hour, place the flower in a growth stimulator.
  5. Put in water with the addition of coal.
  6. Keep warm with good diffused lighting.
  7. Update the water periodically. Only the very tip of the plant is immersed in water. Some gardeners advise keeping an orchid above the water - literally a few millimeters above its surface.
  8. After about two months, the first roots will begin to appear. At this stage, plant an orchid in a slightly moistened sphagnum.
  9. After the formation of a complete root system, perform another transplant. Sphagnum replace with pine bark.
To accelerate root growth, wipe the leaves with a weak glucose solution daily. For foliar dressing use the drug "Dr. Foley."

... and without leaves

Features. To reanimate an orchid without leaves, you need to find out the cause of their fall. In most cases, the problem lies in the poor condition of the roots. To grow new leaves, strictly follow the instructions.

Step-by-step instructions for growing leaves

  1. Carefully inspect the roots. Cut off any rotten or dried roots to a healthy tissue.
  2. Hold the orchid first in the Kornevin preparation, then in a solution of any fungicide.
  3. Spray the remaining leaves and stem, put the plant in an aquarium with a lid. Use sphagnum as soil. Keep the aquarium in a well-lit area.
  4. Ventilate the aquarium daily, spray the orchid with warm water.
  5. Give foliar top dressing every two weeks. Make the concentration ten times lower than usual.
  6. When the growth of roots and leaves begins, the orchid is transplanted into the substrate from the bark.
Do not wait for instant recovery. Orchid will get its usual look in about a year. The duration of recovery depends on the initial condition of the flower and the conditions created.

Flowering problems

Not all problems are associated with pests and diseases. Often, external factors, care errors affect the decorative effect of an orchid. Flowering problems can occur for various reasons. Description of problems and possible causes are given in the table.

Table - Flowering Problems and Possible Causes

ProblemThe reasons
Flowers and buds fall- Completion of the flowering period;
- lack of lighting;
- overheating of the plant;
- hot dry air from the battery;
- dry air;
- cold;
- a draft;
- stress;
- lack of water;
- soil moisture
There is a flower stalk jam- Feature of the structure of Cattleya;
- in Paphiopedilum - due to excessive watering
There are spots and dots on the petals- Mechanical damage;
- sunburn;
- gray rot;
- fusarium;
- fungus;
- virus
No bloom- Lack of rest period;
- lack of light;
- weakened state;
- change of place, microclimate;
- excess nitrogen fertilizers
In phalaenopsis, the petals are deformed and covered with black spots- Shell mite
Cattleya do not develop, rot or dry covers- Excessive or insufficient watering;
- lack or excess of fertilizers;
- lack of daily temperature drops
Indented dry areas appear on the peduncles of the phalaenopsis- Fusarium
Drops form on peduncles and flowers- A structural feature characteristic of Cattleya, cymbidium and other species;
- large daily temperature difference;
- defeat by sucking insects;
- state of general stress
Redness or yellowing of the peduncle occurs- The natural aging process;
- natural color;
- excess or lack of light;
- mechanical damage
The color of the flowers fades- Natural aging;
- difference in light intensity;
- lack of nutrition;
- stress
Holes appear on flowers and buds- defeat by pests;
- mechanical damage
Dried buds- Fungal infection
In phalaenopsis, flower stalks bend, shorten and become covered with light spots- Soft-bodied tick
After finding out the reasons, they decide on treatment. From pests treated with insecticides, from diseases - fungicides. Much attention is paid to adjusting care.

Purple orchid flower

What's with the foliage

Leaves most often change the appearance, cause anxiety among gardeners. But, as is the case with flowers, not all problems are associated with pests and diseases. A list of the most common phenomena and causes is given in the table.

Table - Orchid leaf disease

ProblemThe reasons
Orchid leaves turn yellow- Normal for old leaves;
- Fusarium wilting;
- lack of potassium;
- damage to the roots;
- stress state;
- pests;
- lack of iron;
- low light;
- humidity below 30%;
- overheating;
- fungus
Leaves become flabby and lethargic- damage to the roots;
- overheating of the roots;
- spider web or transparent tick
Leaves crack on a shared vein- mechanical injury;
- rare watering;
- excess nitrogen
Cones or growths appear with a wetting border- injury;
- sunburn;
- fungus
Leaves turn silver- A tick (flat or spider);
- thrips;
- bedbugs
Leaves become marble- Natural color;
- moss and algae;
- virus;
- fungus
Indented points appear- Tissue dehydration
Foliage is getting dark- Thermal burn from the sun;
- too bright light
Dark spots appear with a yellowish fringing.- Heat burn;
- black spotting;
- bacterial spotting;
- fungus;
- fusarium wilting
Leaves whiten, covered with red dots- Flat or spider mites
White or transparent roughness appears- Sunburn;
- spider web or flat tick
Leaves fall, the base turns yellow- lack of light;
- watering with low-quality water;
- root burn;
- fusarium wilting
Indented white spots appear- Long-term action of water;
- viral infection;
- direct sunlight
Leaves turn reddish- Natural color;
- excess copper;
- leaf spotting;
- lack of phosphorus
Leaves soften- Deficiency of phosphorus, copper or zinc;
- shell mite;
- overheating
Tips become dry- Anthracnose;
- heat;
- fungus;
- a large amount of calcium;
- lack of phosphorus;
- aging;
- dry air
Young leaves are deformed- Lack of light, the sheet reaches for the light;
- virus;
- excess nitrogen (deformed leaves are very dark)
Indented gray spots appear- Bacterial rot
Brown spots with clear boundaries appear between the veins- Defeat by nematodes
Leaves are an indicator of orchid health. Using them, you can identify root problems if the orchid is not grown in a transparent pot, identify the majority of pests, and determine errors in care. It is necessary to treat leaf diseases in an orchid comprehensively after determining the main problem.

Root system status

Orchid roots perform several functions at once. They receive food and moisture not only from the substrate, but also from the air. Along with leaves, they participate in photosynthesis processes. With diseases and improper care, the roots rot, dry, change color. Detailed information on possible problems is given in the table.

Table - Orchid Root Problem

ProblemThe reasons
Root rot- High humidity;
- high concentration of trace elements;
- dense soil;
- fungus;
- soil pests
White roots- soil fungus;
- mealybug
White balls on the roots- Laying eggs of snails;
- soil fungus
Glassy, ​​watery roots- Fungus;
- severe hypothermia
The ends of the roots are dry, black- Not enough diluted fertilizer;
- hard water;
- oversupply of growth stimulants
Yellow roots, dry (in the substrate)- Burn of the roots;
- accumulation of salts;
- fungus;
- dry rot;
- overheating of the roots;
- root hypothermia;
- lack of moisture
Orchids have aerial roots- injury;
- lack of moisture in the soil;
- dry air;
- fungus;
- burn with concentrated fertilizer
Dark pits on the roots- Fusarium
Redness of the root tips- The phase of active growth
Lignified roots- Natural aging
Black or rusty coating- Salt deposits
Damaged root sections are cut out, treated with fungicide for prevention. When rotting - reduce watering, change the substrate. When dried, increase humidity.

We evaluate the stem and pseudobulbs

The stem and pseudobulbs as a result of improper care or disease can also change the appearance, rot or dry out. You can identify the problem by the table, which describes the main problems with pseudobulbs and stems.

Table - Problem with stems and pseudobulbs of orchids

ProblemThe reasons
Accordion deformation- Delayed sprouts in a sleeping state;
- insufficient or excessive feeding;
- wet or dry content
Transparent droplets on the stem- Features of the variety;
- stable daily temperature;
- strong fluctuations in daily temperatures;
- defeat by sucking insects
Rotting the base of the pseudobulb- Excessive watering;
- poor lighting;
- subcooling;
- bacterial rot;
- late blight;
- fusarium
Thickening of pseudobulbs, cracking with release of fluid- Excess nitrogenous fertilizers;
- overdose of growth stimulants
Cracks on pseudobulbs- Mechanical damage;
- dampness of the substrate in combination with low temperature
Puckering, flabbiness of pseudobulbs- Features of the structure;
- aging;
- damage to the root system;
- rare, insufficient watering;
- soil fungus
Pseudobulbs darken and dry- Bacterial disease
Rotting pseudobulb or stem- Anthracnose
Yellow pseudobulbs- Natural aging
The formation of many underdeveloped pseudobulbs- After the resuscitation period;
- excess lighting;
- cold content;
- excess nitrogen;
- excess growth stimulants
New shoots are very dark- Excessive lighting;
- accumulation of water in the core;
- black rot

Diseases and pests of orchids are less likely to make themselves felt if the plant is kept in favorable conditions and receives enough nutrition. Follow the care recommendations for each particular orchid variety to maintain the plant's natural immunity.

Article updated: 06/13/2019
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