Is it worth making enzymatic face masks at home

Enzymatic cosmetics has been developed over the past fifteen years. Until that time, enzymes were used exclusively in medicine, where they were added to drugs for treating burns, cuts and other skin lesions, and were limitedly used to improve the condition of the epidermis in dermatitis.

What are enzymes

The dictionary of cosmetics and cosmetology defines enzymes as biological catalysts. These substances do not do any work on their own. But by binding to other substances, for example, proteins, they multiply their effect.

An important advantage of substances is that the speed of biochemical reactions determined by enzymes can be controlled. Accordingly, the intensity and characteristics of the effect on the cells can be predicted initially, until the moment of direct use of the substance.

Theoretically, using such catalysts can solve many problems. For example, there is evidence of studies in which enzymes work at the nanoparticle level and promote the penetration of substances valuable to the dermis through the epidermal barrier. Substances can improve the quality of cell regeneration, enhance the composition of the lipid barrier to protect the skin from dehydration.

But theory is far from practice. The fact is that such substances are extremely unstable. Upon contact with other substances, they are rapidly destroyed. The absence of an appropriate medium completely deactivates the enzyme components within forty to sixty minutes.

Features of enzyme cosmetics

The critical instability of enzymes has led to the development of two independent areas in cosmetology. One area of ​​professional cosmetology, recognizing the value of these compounds, is making efforts to preserve them.

In each case, different approaches are required. For example, the bromelain enzyme used for enzymatic peeling is a stable substance. When used in a recipe, cardinal and expensive solutions are not required. But other enzymes, for example, amylase, lysine are not highly resistant to the environment. In order to convey them to the client in an unchanged form, they must be properly "preserved". And such approaches, as a rule, require additional investment.

The latter factor served as the basis for the development of enzymatic cosmetics such as the mass market. “You must admit that the manufacturer has a great temptation to introduce an enzyme into the composition of the product, to indicate it in advertising and on the packaging, but not to worry about whether this substance will work,” commented Anna Margolina.

Commonly Used Substances

There is a list of active substances used in enzyme cosmetics quite often.

• Bromelain and papain. These are substances isolated from plant materials. They are used for surface peeling of the skin. Papain, obtained from papaya fruits, breaks down the solid keratin of dead cells and promotes their rapid removal from the surface of the living epidermis. A soft and delicate procedure does not injure living skin cells, so this type of peeling is recommended by cosmetologists for home use instead of scrub.
• Coenzyme Q10. A fashionable enzyme that can be found in expensive facial creams. For a long time, coenzyme Q10 was considered an effective component against skin aging when exposed to free radicals. So in the publication “Cosmetics and Cosmetology from A to Z” it is indicated that it activates a number of enzymatic reactions in the mitochondria of cells, which leads to an increase in the vital potential of cells. But in 2015, Siegfried Hekimi, a professor at a Canadian university, questioned a common opinion. In tests on mice, he found that the resistance of cells to free radicals when exposed to coenzyme Q10 and without its participation remains unchanged.

And where are the other substances, you ask? What are used in the composition of enzyme face masks? Reviews about these cosmetic products from industry professionals are mixed.

Substances for exfoliation. Fermentotherapy

“Enzymatic cleansing preparations are the only category of products in which the presence of enzymes is justified in terms of biology,” says Elena Hernandez, author of the book “New Cosmetology”. - These substances, working on the surface of the skin, weaken the adhesion of corneocytes, destroying their structural chemical bonds. Initially, the formulations of enzyme preparations were created for their surface use, and not in order to “push” them into the skin. ”

Enzymatic masks and gommages, exfoliants and enzymatic peels are created on the basis of these substances. The effectiveness of their effects varies.

• Gommazhi. They contain minimal concentrations of the active enzymes bromelain or papain. They remove dirt from the surface of the skin. They can be used at home regularly. With oily skin, twice a week, with dry skin - once.
• Exfoliants. Contain a higher concentration of active enzymes. Remove protein, lipid contaminants from the skin. Suitable for home use, but not recommended for dry epidermis.
• Enzymatic peels. They are used in beauty salons as a means to prepare the skin for other procedures. They have high exfoliating activity, loosen the surface layer of keratocytes, therefore, they are used to prepare for chemical peeling, ultrasonic facial cleansing.

Also, in the conditions of a cosmetology cabinet, pancreatin, lipase, creatine, pepsin and some other enzymes are used. “At a concentration of up to one percent, they have a cleansing effect,” V.G. Gunko, specialist of the National Pharmaceutical Academy of Ukraine. “They remove epithelial particles and increase the ability of the skin to absorb cosmetics.”

Features of enzyme masks

But what are enzymatic face masks, if cosmetology gives them only a means to cleanse the skin? “Masks are needed for proper care of the surface skin of the skin,” says beautician Alexandra Chernyavskaya. “These compounds do not have a deep effect, so they cannot have an effect similar to, for example, massage.”

In this case, a specialist calls enzyme masks a very active cosmetic agent.“They are used to reduce age-related changes,” continues Alexandra Chernyavskaya. “The compounds launch a number of enzymes, helping cells to divide and renew more actively.”

Enzymatic cosmetics are represented by a limited number of professional brands. The creator of one of them, biochemist and pharmacologist Danne Montague-King, clarifies that substances in the masks serve as catalysts for certain reactions that are triggered not only in the epidermis, but also in the deeper layers of the skin.

“There are enzymes that can be superficially applied to the skin,” comments Danne Montague-King formulations. - Some help remove dead cell layers. Others release gases and impurities from the skin. In a complex, this helps to smooth its relief, increase tone and give a more youthful look. But these substances are far from all that cosmetology can use. ”

According to Danne Montague-King, during the research of his team, the enzymes were divided into a number of groups. They are ways to dissolve protein deposits, starch, others destroy dense fatty plugs in the pores. Identified substances that can cause a chain reaction through cell walls. As a result of the action of a complex of substances, several effects are achieved.

• Increased blood circulation. It occurs due to the expansion of capillaries. After a correctly applied, balanced mask with enzymes, the face is covered with a pronounced network of vessels, which indicates that the treatment was successful. This grid lasts for twenty minutes.
• Reverse osmosis. Qualitative composition causes an osmotic reaction, as a result of which pollution and toxins leave the cells. During the procedure, this is felt by the pulsation of the tissues.
• Stimulation of muscle contraction. During the enzymatic procedure, the facial muscles contract arbitrarily. This requires the correct application of the composition using the banding technique. It involves "drawing" a grid on the face of vertical and horizontal stripes in composition. In this way, it is applied to the face, neck and décolleté. The tool is not applied to the muscles around the eyes and mouth, since it is impossible to predict the direction of their contraction. Stimulation of muscle contractions leads to an improvement in their condition and a decrease in the expression of facial wrinkles.

“Creating formulas for enzyme masks is a technically complex process,” continues Danne Montague-King. - It is expensive and time consuming. But in thirty-nine years of research, I came to the conclusion that almost all skin pathologies and its age-related changes can be treated with this method. ”

Home Appliances

What you need to know when using enzyme facial masks at home? Firstly, that a number of their advertised effects are not supported by anything other than manufacturers' statements. Moreover, funds are sometimes used in cosmetology practice. They are used to correct age-related changes: increase skin tone and elasticity, reduce wrinkles, reduce the manifestation of ptosis of facial tissues.

Here are a few recommendations to help you decide whether to include such funds in your care.

• Try it in the cabin. Go through the enzyme mask procedure in the salon that offers this service. You can feel the effect of the product and see how it acts specifically on your skin.
• Assess the need for home use. Cosmetics with enzymes, like any other, are divided into professional and home care. The level of active components in the latter is lower. Therefore, after the salon procedure, the effect of the house may not seem so pronounced. But if you observe a good result after the salon, at home you can use the tool to maintain it.
• Get ready for the high price. A high-quality enzyme mask is an expensive product. It cannot be cheap, since biochemists, technicians, and pharmacologists have been working for many years to create a composition in which proteins could be stored in an active form. It is impossible to buy such a composition in a supermarket.Typically, home care products are offered in the salon, where they work with professional masks.

Activation of active substances occurs within twenty minutes. You may feel tingling, tingling, twitching, or pulsation of the skin. Manufacturers allow similar reactions. For forty-five minutes, the mask completely hardens on the skin, before removing, it is desirable to soak it with water. To do this, put a damp cloth on your face again. Then rinse off like a simple mask and carry out the evening care procedure.

After the drug, there may be redness on the face. The mask worked fully if you are observing a “road map” from distinct vessels. She will be gone in about twenty minutes. If the skin turns red, hot to the touch, you have not reached the effect of the product. Perhaps it was applied incorrectly or the composition was incorrectly prepared.

Enzymatic facial masks are a controversial tool in modern cosmetology. Traditionally, enzymes are used for effective and gentle exfoliation, but in this context they are used to activate skin reserves, its rejuvenation and tone. Drugs can not be cheap, so it makes sense to go through a trial procedure in a beauty salon, evaluate the effect and only then purchase them for home use.