The content of the article
The plant belongs to the bignonium family. For glossy leaves of a deep green hue, the people call the radermacher the emerald tree. In nature, it can reach impressive dimensions - about 30 m in height. In indoor floriculture, the radermacher is much lower and almost never blooms.
Description
The bignonium family has about 16 species. But in floriculture, only one species became widespread - the Chinese radermacher. This is a beautiful tree, reaching an average of 1.5 m. The plant has the following features.
- Stem. A tall trunk, lignified over time. Depending on the pruned crown, there may be a shrub or sapling. The trunk grows very quickly and can stretch by 1 m during the year. Slightly drooping branches with glossy, dense foliage leave from it.
- Leaves. Emerald leaves are covered with a shiny smooth coating. From this they seem to be waxy, unnatural. Pointed leaves have a serrated edge.
- Flowers. Appear at home is extremely rare and only after reaching the age of 15. Large large flowers, white or light yellow in color, bloom on a tree at night. The diameter of the opened bud can reach 7 cm. The inflorescences have a delicate pleasant aroma, slightly reminiscent of the smell of cloves.
Caring for a radermakherma: what to consider
If you know how to care for a radermacher, then growing it will be a real pleasure. The plant is completely unpretentious. But at the same time, he is very grateful and able to grow at a gigantic pace to the delight of the grower.
The recommendations of gardeners on how to care for a radermacher after a purchase say that you can start with a transplant. But it is best to give the plant a couple of weeks for acclimatization, and only then proceed to change the pot.
Lighting
Unpretentious Asian is a big lover of light. But she prefers only diffused lighting and absolutely does not tolerate direct sunlight. Exposure to the bright sun and lack of light are dangerous for the radermacher. Florists recommend creating the following conditions.
- Optimal place. Indoor flower will feel comfortable on the western window or on the east.
- Arrangement of the place. You can place an emerald tree on the northern windowsill, provided that sunlight reaches it. If the choice is on the south windowsill, you need to shade the window with a matte curtain or film.
- All-round light. The best place for the radermacher will be a glazed loggia or bay window, providing lighting from all sides. In this case, the tree will grow proportionally.
- Constant turning. If there is no way to ensure a uniform flow of light, then you need to remember to periodically rotate the plant. So all branches will be equally developed.
Temperature mode
Growing a radermacher at home does not require the creation of special conditions. Indoor tree willingly adapts to the natural temperature differences. It is not necessary to provide him with a decrease in temperature in the winter, since the radermacher does not bloom. To create comfort for the plant, use these recommendations.
- Summer. Emerald tree loves warmth. It easily withstands up to + 28 ° C. A tree can even put up with intense heat. But in such conditions it is necessary to increase the air humidity.
- In winter. The plant does not need cool conditions. But at the same time, it can withstand the temperature drop to + 11 ° C. Experienced growers are advised to provide winter rest for the Rädermaher. After hibernation, the tree grows more actively and is less sick.
Humidity
An Asian guest loves moderately humid air. In conditions of sufficient humidity, it can withstand the heat and put up with the proximity of heating appliances. However, you should not overdo it with moisture. Otherwise, the radermacher will simply rot, starting from the root. Provide the plant with simple conditions.
- Normal humidity. Increase the moisture content in the air by various methods. You can resort to a pallet with wet expanded clay, moss or peat, or just put containers with water.
- Spraying. Fighting with low humidity helps with the usual spraying of the crown from the spray gun.
- Bathing. Rädermaher will gladly take a shower, especially when the heating is on. But during the procedure it is recommended to cover the soil with a film so as not to flood the root system. Bathing will clean the plant from dust and dirt.
Watering
Radermacher needs abundant and regular watering. It is important to remember a sense of proportion. The plant is not suitable for periodic watering or heavy flooding “for later”. The tree needs regular intake of moisture in small quantities.
- Watering frequency. At ordinary temperatures, in spring and summer, the soil must be moistened three times a week. At the same time, it is important not to allow it to dry out. If the temperature rises above 26 ° C, then it is necessary to water the radermacher more often.
- Soft water. Emerald tree is suitable only for defended water. You can apply rain. Chlorinated tap is strictly contraindicated.
Pruning
Radermacher is growing very fast. Therefore, it is necessary to constantly restrain the excessive pace of development. To do this, periodically cut long shoots. Optimum pruning in spring.
The top of the young radermakhery need to pinch. This procedure will provide greater branching to the plant.
Top dressing
The rapidly growing Radermacher needs to be fed. Fertilizers begin to be applied in March, when the active growing season begins. When choosing and applying dressings, it is recommended to adhere to such rules.
- The right fertilizer. Emerald wood is suitable for mineral fertilizers intended for decorative and deciduous crops.If the radermacher has variegated foliage, then the nitrogen content in the top dressing should be minimal, otherwise the tree will lose its motley “zest”.
- Feed rate. Fertilizing is necessary once every 15-20 days. This is enough to ensure effective growth and full development.
- Application Method. In order to properly feed the crop, it is necessary to breed the fertilizer according to the instructions and introduce it into the soil after irrigation with plain water.
Transfer
Young plants are recommended to be replanted annually. When the radermacher turns three years old, such a process will become much more complicated, because the tree will become big. Therefore, adult specimens are transplanted only when necessary, approximately every two to three years.
The most suitable time for a transplant is spring, the first days of March. Therefore, it is better to leave even a plant bought in the fall until spring. But if the root system sprouts through the drains, then after two weeks of acclimatization it is necessary to transplant the radermacher into another pot. Transplantation is carried out according to the following rules.
- Pot selection. The new flowerpot should be only 2-3 cm larger than the previous one. Radermacher has an underdeveloped fibrous system, so large flowerpots are completely unsuitable for her. If you plant a tree in a very roomy pot, then instead of growing the crown, the emerald tree will develop roots.
- Soil preparation. The plant needs loose soil, which will ensure normal air circulation and a sufficient outflow of water. For transplantation, it is recommended to prepare the substrate by mixing one portion of sand, two parts of peat and soddy soil and four portions of leaf. You can take ready-made soil: universal or substrate for decorative and deciduous crops.
- Drainage system. To ensure a normal outflow of water and prevent stagnation of moisture in the soil, a large drainage is poured on the bottom, approximately 3 cm.
- Transplant. The plant is carefully removed from the old flowerpot. To check the condition of the roots, carefully loosen the soil with a wooden stick. Do not separate the old earth with your hands and do not soak the rhizome in water. Emerald tree can not stand such events. And reviews confirm this. The transplantation is carried out on the principle of transshipment, moving the roots with the old earth to a new pot and sprinkling them with the prepared substrate.
3 breeding methods
The Radermacher is propagated in three ways: using cuttings, layering and the method of planting seeds. The most common is the cuttings. This method is widespread - after cutting the crown there is always a lot of planting material. It is quite lightweight, provides effective rooting.
Cuttings
Features. It is best to carry out the propagation of the radermacher by cuttings in May. If you plan to plant young trees, then shift the process of crown formation in the first days of May.
Breeding algorithm
- Take strong shoots, without signs of damage, which are at least 8 cm long.
- Carefully cut the bottom leaves.
- Treat the end of the handle with phytohormone. You can apply "heteroauxin."
- Plant the cuttings in moist soil made of equal portions of sand and peat.
- The container with the cuttings must be covered with a film and transferred to a bright and warm place with a temperature of about + 22 ° C.
- Regularly moisten the soil and ventilate the cuttings.
- A new leaf formed on the plant will signal the rooting process. These can be transplanted into separate pots.
Planting seeds
Features. This method of reproduction is not often practiced. It is almost impossible to get seeds at home, and they are extremely rare on sale. If you managed to get seeds, then plant according to all the rules.
Landing algorithm
- Pre-soak the seeds for a couple of days. You can use growth activators.
- Sow planting material in peaty-sandy soil.
- Create a greenhouse effect for seeds by covering the container with glass or film.
- Ventilate and moisten the container with landings periodically.
- After about 10-12 days, the first timid shoots will appear.
- And after two to three weeks, young plants will gain strength. Fortified trees can be planted in separate flowerpots.
Stem layering
Features. This method seems rather complicated at first glance. But flower growers argue that reproduction by layering is one of the elementary ways to grow a young tree.
Breeding algorithm
- Initially pick up a strong healthy shoot.
- Make a shallow notch on the selected stem with a sharp knife.
- Treat the cut site with phytohormones.
- Wrap the notch with moistened moss, and on top with polyethylene and fix the entire structure.
- Moss needs to be moistened periodically.
- When the root system is formed at the cut site, carefully separate the shoot and plant it in a separate pot.
Growing problems
An unprincipled and strong plant can sometimes suffer from various diseases or pests. In such situations, it is important to immediately determine the cause and take all measures to treat the radermacher.
Florist Errors
Problems most often arise as a result of improper care or non-compliance with the "requirements" of the radermacher. Having noticed the first signs of illness according to the table, immediately analyze what conditions you have provided for your green pet.
Table - Errors of care and methods for the restoration of the emerald tree
| What's happening | Cause | Elimination methods |
|---|---|---|
| The leaves of the plant become smaller and yellow | - Micronutrient deficiency | - Fertilize; - transplant into a nutrient substrate |
| With radermacher, the leaves turn yellow, dry and fall | - contact with a bright sun; - dry air | - Move the plant to another place or shade from the sun; - moisten the air and periodically spray the plant |
| The shoots of the plant wilt, the leaves lose turgor | - moisture deficiency | - Strengthen watering; - give the plant “bathing” once a week |
| Foliage loses color, becomes transparent, pale and gradually falls off | - Excessive watering | - Normalize watering; - allow the soil to dry out; - transplant the plant into a new substrate |
| At radermachery massively foliage | - The plant is on a draft; - lack of light; - the flower “breathes” burning, tobacco smoke, varnishes, paints or other chemicals | - Relocate to another place; - illuminate if necessary with a phytolamp |
Diseases and pests
If all the conditions for the content of the emerald tree are met, then the indoor tree is practically not sick. But if there were any errors, then the risk is high that the deradermacher will fall ill or be attacked by pests. The most common of them are presented in the table.
Table - Raddermacher diseases, prevention methods and treatment
| Title | Prevention | Symptoms of defeat | Treatment methods |
|---|---|---|---|
| Fungal rot | - Transplant the plant into a sterilized soil and pot; - scald drainage with boiling water; - do not fill in the roots | - Branches and leaves lose their strength, become lethargic, drooping; - slows down development and growth; - putrid odor may come from the earth | - Take out a plant from a pot and clear of old soil; - cut off all parts affected by rot; - treat the roots with fungicide, and sprinkle the slices with chopped activated carbon; - transplant into a new disinfected substrate |
| Mealybug | - Maintain normal humidity in the room; - once every two months, irrigate the culture with soap and water; - hang pest tape nearby | - The leaves of the plant begin to turn yellow and dry; - they die and fall off; - tangles of white cotton wool are noticeable on the leaves | - Affected leaves and shoots must be carefully trimmed; - treat the plant with Actellic, Agravertin, Aktofitom, Kleschevitom, Fitovermom, Flumaytom |
| Aphid | - On the tops of the tree small pests are noticeable; - leaves are deformed; - the plant withers and dies | - Cut deformed sections; - treat the plant with Aktara, Aktellik or Fitoferm; - repeat the treatment after seven days |
|
| Spider mite | - The lower surface of the sheet is covered with a thin cobweb; - leaves gradually turn yellow and fall | - Remove all affected leaves; - treat the plant with Fitoferm, Aktara, Decis, Aktlik; - in case of severe treatment damage, repeat every 4 days, changing drugs |
Having studied all the features of caring for a radermakherma, remember one more recommendation. Always ventilate the room and do wet cleaning. The plant absolutely does not like dust and can wither away in the room in which the repair is carried out.
Reviews: "My" Radik "has grown a lot over the year"
Missing my Rädermaherka. Leaf after leaf, then branch by branch. Moreover, in the end, the leaves did not fall off, but dried directly on the branch. Her roots are rotten. Apparently - from overflow. I was then quite a teapot.
ladybug, http://www.flowersweb.info/forum/forum1/topic15842/messages/
My radik has grown a lot over the year. I really like this plant. Oddly enough, it does not dry leaves even near the battery. I nibble endlessly, because I am eager to stretch out, the sun is not enough for him now.
Natalie, http://forum-flower.ru/showthread.php?p=94240&mode=linear
Yes, by golly, the plant is not whimsical! Well, she loves to drink and that it was light - but on the south window she felt bad, turned yellow. Here southeast - just right. Now I have given my rudermacher to the boss - she has something strongly sunk into her. She stands on the north window, but recently. Let's see how it will feel. By the way, I pulled this instance out of the box, which I was going to drag in the trash. She was covered in a worm, but as soon as I cured her, I immediately started to grow - in the winter! So I didn’t notice any whims - a plant very responsive seemed to me to be responsive to the slightest “affection”.
Linda, http://www.flowersweb.info/forum/forum1/topic15842/messages/
From personal observations, she concluded that she loves moisture. More precisely, she does not like dryness. Last year, she arranged for me to fall in the fall with the beginning of the heating season, now in the hot (summer or heating) periods I just spray it and it doesn’t fall off anymore. Well, it’s true that it’s a little wilted if a crowd of people sweeps around the apartment and there is a persistent smell of tobacco smoke . She really does not like tobacco smoke and is very afraid of a draft, the first sign of her dissatisfaction is "leaf fall".
Melissa, https://iplants.ru/forum/index.php?showtopic=4730
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